Adjustable dress-chart.



No. 564,700; Patented nec. 25, |900; H. c. wlLsoN. ADJUST/mij DRESS CHART.

(Application filed Jan.' 22, 1900.!

3 Sheets-Sheet l.

(No Moda.)

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MNST or FRONT /NVENTOH 60% y A TTOHNEYS No. 664,700. Patented nec. 25,1900. H. c. wlLsoN.

ADJUSTABLE DRESS CHART.

(Application filed Jan. 22, 1900.?

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

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N0. 664,700. Patnted Dec. 25, |900.

H. C. WlLSUN.

ADJUSTABLE DRESS CHART.

(Application med Jan. 22. 1900,)

Sheets-Sheet 3.

(Nn Model.)

FIG.

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y UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY C. WILSON, OF NEV YORK, N. Y.

ADJUSTABLE DRESS-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 6641,700, dated December 25, 1900.

Application filed January 22, 1900. SerialNo. 2,341. (No model To @ZZ whom t may concern,.-

Be it known that I, HARRY C. WILSON, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of New York, borough of Manhattan, in the count-y and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Garment-Cutting Patterns, of Which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to garment-cutting patterns, and has for its object to provide a series of adjustable patterns that may be readily set according to measurements, so as to obtain proper patterns for a ladys waist, the principal aims of my invention being to simplify the adjusting operations, to provide a construction that will positively give the full outline of each piece, and to enable the dressmaker to Vary the pattern so as to give greater or less Width to certain portions of the waist.

As my improved pattern gives the complete outline of each piece and not only points thereof which require to be connected by lines, it will be obvious that the pattern may be used for tracing the outlineof the several pieces directly on the material from which the waist is to be produced.

My inventioiiwill be fully described hereinafter, and the features of novelty pointed out in the appended claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the views.

Figure l is a plan showing the various sections of my pattern set together as they are used in practice. Fig. 2 is a separate plan, on an enlarged scale, of the front piece of the pattern. Figs. 3 and 4 are sections on the lines 3 3 and 4c 4 of Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a separate plan of the extra under-arm piece, and Fig. 6 shows the under-arm piece.

The entire pattern comprises five dierent.

I pieces,all of Which are used in drafting a Waist.

These parts are the front piece A, the extra under-arm piece B, (this is not always used,) the under-arm piece C, the form D, and the back piece E.

The front piece A comprises a front end piece A', having pivots d b, on which may turn the dart-pieces A2 A3 A4, respectively. The pieces A3 and A4 are mounted on the same pivot b, being connected so as to be capable of a limited motion, one relatively to the other, by means of a pin c on one of the said pieces engaging a segmental slotc on the other piece. Ooncentric with the pivots c b the front end piece A is providedwith segmental slots ot b', these slots limiting the movement of the projections a2 b2, secured to the dart-pieces A2 A4 and forming at the same time pointers indicating on gradua- Ations G0, disposed adjacent to the said slots.

At the front edge said piece A' is provided with a graduation Gr,- which indicates the length of the front, and preferably is so marked. On the upper portion of the front end piece A is adapted to slide in an inclined direction a neck-piece A5, provided for this purpose With slots d3, engaged by pins a4 on the end piece A. This neck-piece has two graduations G', adjacent to the slots a3, to permit of properly setting the neck-piece relatively to the front end piece. the neck-piece and front end piece is located a shoulder-piece A6, which along its upper edge has a graduation G2 in continuation of the upper edge of the neck-piece, and it is further provided with a slot a6, parallel to said graduation and engaged by a pin a7 on the neck-piece and with a pin as, engaging a slot 0.9, parallel with the upper edge of the neck piece A5. The shoulder-piece has a curved slot 0,10, parallel with its rear edge and engaged by a pin r11 upon an arm-piece A7. The arm-piece is connected by a pivot (1.12 with the rear dart-piece A8, provided with an extension A9, guided by means of pins 0.13, engagin g a slot am. Said extension has a curved rear end intersecting the rear edge of the rear dart-piece Asand indicating upon the graduation GS, provided along said edge. With the rear dart-piece A8 is connected the bustpiece A10 by pins e116 in the bust-piece and engaging curved slots (1.17 in the rear dartpiece A8, the center of curvature of said slots being approximately at the pin 115, carried by the bust-piece. The bust-piece A10 is formed with two slots @21, of which the upper one extends out through the end of the bust-piece, and th rough said slots the pivot-pins a b pass. The bust-piece A10 isI provided with an extension A11, formed With the slot n.18, through which the pin w15 and another pin a1, also Under IOO carried by the bust-piece, pass, and the said extension is also formed with slots d20, through which pass the pivot-pins o, b after passing -through the slots @L21 of the bust-piece A10.

The slots 0,10, 0,20, and @31 are all substantially horizontal-that is,.parallel with the waistline. The lear dart-piece A3 has cut-ou t portions or slots A13 and A14, the cut-out portion or slot A13 being under the end o f the` lower` slot 01,31 and the cut-out portion or slot A14 under the slot (L10. A12 is a reinforcing-piece extending across the, front piece A and through which the pivot-pins ab pass. The bust-piece A10 is provided alongr its u pper and lower edges with graduations G4, indicating the bust-measure.

The extra under-.arm piece B comprises two top sections B' B2 and two bottom sections B3 B4. The top sections overlap and are adjustable transversely by means of a pin d, engaging a slot cl in the other section, and adjacent to said slot is a graduation G5. Each of the top sections is provided with a slot d3, extending vertically and engaged by tWo pins d3 on the corresponding bottom sections B3 B4.

The top piece B3 is provided with a further graduation G0, and the other top piece B has a vertical graduation B1, on which is adapted to indicate the curved front edge of the bottom piece B3. The two bottom pieces are connected by a pin d4, engaging a slot d5, so that theyV are adjustable together up and down, but are capable of independent transverse movement.

The under-arm piece C is similar in construction to the extra under-arm piece, except that the parts are of slightly-different shape and that there is provided an extra piece C5, having slots e3, engaged by pins e7 of the top piece C3. The top piece C has notches e3, adapted to receive the pins e7 when the parts C Cz overlap sufficiently. The connections of the several parts have been lettered correspondingly to those of the extra under-arm piece, and therefore need not be described further. The graduations are as follows: the top graduation G3, the waist graduation G0, and a rear graduation G10, on which indicates the curved rear edge of the bottom piece C4. The top piece C has a slot Ve" engaged by a pin e10 on the extra piece C3.

The form-piece D comprises an upper section D', having vertical slots f engaged by pins f on the lower section D2, which has a curved edge indicating on a graduation G11 on the upper section D.

The back piece E has two top parts E E2, connected by a pin g, engaging a curved slot g', and two bottom pieces E,3 E4, connected with each other by pins g3, engaging slots g3, and to the corresponding top pieces E' and E2 by pins g4, engaging vertical slots g5. The back piece. has` a graduation G12 at the top, another graduation G13 along its rear edge, and a third graduation G11 adjacent to the connection 0f the bottom pieces with the top pieces.

In employing my improved pattern the usual measurements are taken and the parts are then adjusted, as best shown in Fig. 1. The exi ra under-arm piece B is used only for limit to which the front piene A may be set.

When usingr the extra under-arm piece B, the

bust-piece A10 of the front piece A is not adjusted according to the bust measurement, as

itis when theextra under-arm piece is'omitted; but the amount of sizes represented by the extra under-arm piece will when it is usedYY l be deducted from the hust-measure and the I i i hust-piece A10 will be set accordingly. This -V will b e best explained by example. posing the bust-measure isI forty-seven, the extra under-.arm piece B when closed repre,-

sents seven sizes and may be extended to, rep-VV Y, Y 'Y resent any number of sizes from Bight to eleven, as shown in Fig. 5. In Eig. l the ex; tra under-arm piece vB isy so extended as to represent eight sizes.

Therefore, theY hust- 'Y 'i measurefbeing forty-seven, the hust-pieceA10 i will be set to forty-seven minus eightthat is, to 39 --as shown in Fig. 1. piece A5 and shoulder-piece A0 are adjusted according to the shoulder-measur@ as indifV cated by the graduation G3, and the front end piece A is adj usted relatively to the neck-Y piece A5 according to. the graduations G'.V

The extension A9 is set` according to the under-arm measure, as indicated u pon the grad--,

uation G3, and the dart-pieces A2 and A4 are set so` that the pins a3 b3 will indicate the same i n u mber on the grad nations G10,a,djacent totheV slots Ct b'. The rear dart-.piece A3 and the front dart-pieces A3 are then turned on their marks Plain dart or French dartiWi-ll register with the corresponding outline.l Thus .1 Y

in Fig. l the dart-pieces A8 A3 are set, for a French dart., while in Fig. 2 theyare set for 'Y Y a plain dart.

It will be noticed that with these adjustments all the other parts of the front piece A will assume their proper posi; tion, the arm-piece A7 being shifted, together with the rear dart-piece A3. The extra un.-

der-arm piece is simply set according to the under-arm measure, ita-being understood that Y it lies with the dressmakers judgment whether the extra underarm piece shall,y he

made wide or narrow.,v The under-arm; piece C is set at the top according te the arm-.size measure and at the bottom according to the Waist-measure in width and. according to the Y under-arm measureinlength. The form-piece D iS Simply Set accordingtO the under-.arm measure. The back piece E is set atthetcn according to the width of the hack, as indi-- set accordingr to the waist-measure-namely, the under-arm piece C and the back piece E. In case a narrow back piece is desired the sections of the back piece E are shoved toward each Other transversely until they overlap to the fullest extent. In this case the underarrn piece C is set exactly according to the waist measure. 'If, however, as on stoutforms, it is desirable to make the back piece E wider at the bottom, the sections of the back piece are Opened transversely until the proper form has been Obtained, as the dressmaker may decide by judgment. Thus in Fig. l the back piece has been expanded in width until number 7 is indicated on the graduation G14. This number is to be deducted from the waist-measure, and supposing this to have been thirty-six it follows that the under-arm piece C will have to be set accordi ng to the measu re thirty-six minus seven, which is 29, as shown. It will thus be seen that while the several pieces of the pattern give an accurate Outline of each piece therel adjusting the parts of inyimproved garmentpattern are readily understood, that each part indicates a full outline Of the corresponding garment part, and that the pattern may he used for different styles of darts and also allows the dresstnaker to use judgment in varying the adjustments of the parts,and thereby secure more perfect results.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- I. In a garment-pattern, the combination with the front piece, a neck-piece adjustably secured to the front piece, and a shoulderpiece adjustably secured to the neck-piece, of an arm-piece adjustably pivoted to the shoulder-piece, three dart-pieces pivoted to the front piece, two of said dart-pieces being adjustably secured together and mounted on the same pivot, a bust-piece adjustably secured to the front piece, and a rear dart-piece to which the arm-piece is pivoted, adjustably secured to the bust-piece, and provided with an adjustable extension, substantially as described.

2. In a garment-pattern, the combination with a front piece, and dart-pieces pivoted thereto, of a bust-piece provided with alined `guide-pins and with slots through which the pivots of the dart-pieces pass, an extension for the bust-'piece provided with slots to receive the guide-pins and the pivots of the dart-pieces, and a rear dart-piece adj ustably secured to the bust-piece, substantially as described.

3. In a garment-pattern, a front piece, three dart-pieces pivoted thereto, two of the dartpieces being mounted On a common pivot and adj ustably connected with each other, an extensible bust-piece'adjustably secured to the front piece, a rear dart-piece adjustably secured to the Outer end of the bust-piece, a neck-piece adj ustably secured to the front piece, a shoulder-piece adj ustably secured tO the neck-piece, and an arm-piece having one end pivoted to the rear dart-piece and its other end adj ustably secured to the shoulderpiece, substantially as described.

4. In a garment-pattern, a front piece having curved slots, dart-pieces pivoted to the front piece and each provided with a projection at one end working in a slot of the front piece, a third dart-piece pivoted on one of the pivots of the first-named dart-pieces and adjustably connected with the said dart-piece, an extensible bust-piece adjustably secured to the front piece, a rear dart-piece adjustably secured to the Outer end of the bustpiece and provided with an adjustable extension at its lower end, a neck-piece adj ustably secured to the front piece, a shoulderpiece adjustably secured to the neck-piece,

and an arm-piece having one end pivoted to guide-pins, an extension for the bust-piece provid ed with slots to receive the guide-pins HARRY c. WILSON.

Witnesses:

JOHN LOTKA, EVERARD BOLTON MARSHALL.

IOO

IOS 

